Transcriber's Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Inconsistent or incorrect accents and spelling have been left unchanged.

THROUGH UNKNOWN TIBET

Montagu S. Wellby

THROUGH
UNKNOWN TIBET

By M. S. WELLBY
Capt. 18th Hussars

The Kushok's Cook.

ILLUSTRATED

LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN
PATERNOSTER SQUARE. 1898

[All rights reserved]

TO
OUR BROTHER OFFICERS

PREFACE.

In publishing the following account of a journey acrossTibet and China, it has been my object to describe in asimple manner all that I did and saw from beginning toend, in the hope that some future traveller may learn, notso much what he ought to do, as what he ought not to do.

Those who have experienced the charms of a nomad'slife, will, I trust, be once more reminded of happy days offreedom, will sympathise with us in our difficulties, andshare the pleasures which they alone can appreciate.Should others, by chance, find some little interest inperusing these pages, and be tempted to taste for themselvesthe sweets of wandering through little known lands, theywill be recompensed for doing so, and I shall have found myreward.

To those who patiently read to the end and close thebook with a feeling of disappointment, I would appeal forleniency. Begun as it was at Lucknow, amid the distractionsof polo, racing, and field-days, continued at Simla,India's summer capital, and finished in the wilds ofWaziristan, it can lay no claim to literary or scientificmerit, but only to being a plain story plainly told; and assuch I give it to the public.

For the chapter on the Mohammedan rebellion in China,my thanks are due to my friend Mr. Ridley, of the "ChinaInland Mission," who lived in the very midst of the sceneof trouble, and who kindly allowed me to make every useof his notes. They are likewise due to Sir Claude andLady Macdonald, whose kindness and hospitality in Pekincan never be forgotten, and lastly, to those three faithfulones who stuck to us through thick and thin.

The names of Duffadar Shahzad Mir, Lassoo, and EsaTsareng—known throughout as "Esau"—will always callto my mind three men without whom this journey couldnever have been accomplished, and in saying this I knowthat I am also expressing the feelings of my companion,Lieut. Malcolm.

M. S. WELLBY,
Capt. 18th Hussars.

Waziristan,
November, 1897.

CONTENTS.

...

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CHAPTER I.